Ski Conditions

8 photos

Spearhead Traverse April 4-6

Spearhead Traverse

Ski Conditions

Hi there, this is a continuation of Tristan’s great report who finished the traverse a day before us, with a few updated photos and conditions. He has a great description of each section of the traverse so check out his MCR. We left from Blackcomb and finished over Flute col. We avoided Singing Pass as it is a walkout for the last few kms with lots of creek crossings in boots.

We had stellar cold conditions as well post April 2nd storm which dropped about 25cm of new snow in the Alpine. By April 6th on our last day, we started to see a breakable melt-freeze crust on all aspects except for N aspects above 1700m which had soft unconsolidated snow with some high exposed glaciers having widespread wind press. We did not see much in the way of significant avalanche activity. Height of snow at 2200m on Tremor Gl. was 260cm.

The Pattison boot pack to the south ridge is becoming steep and much longer with the glacier receding. In icy conditions this would require boot crampons and ice axe. We had good enough soft snow and did not need both.

The descent off from the Ripsaw to the Naden is still holding up but with a few more sunny days and parties scrapping through, this will start to expose bare rock.

The crux ridge between Macbeth and Iago is easily navigated by gaining the high point with skins and then doing a gradual downward traverse to the other side. We had soft conditions on our travel, experienced folks can get through with downhill skinning in these conditions but removing skins would be advisable if snow was still frozen. See photo attached with X at high point.

For those wanting to ski some of the steep lines in the far end of the range, see photos attached of Mt Cheakamus and NE face of Fitz. Most faces are much narrower and rockier than normal. N face of Fitz has big rock bands to navigate through.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.